Tetnuldi kopimo ataskaita 2B kategorija
THE MOUNTAIN TREKKING REPORTTHE CENTRAL CAUCASUS 2B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY2017-07-23/2017-07-30
Team leader: Gintaras BAGDONAS
The list of participants: Valerijus SINKEVIČIUS
Sigutė STANAITIENĖ, Vilma TAURAITĖ, Marija BAGDONAVIČIŪTĖ, Rasa KAVALIAUSKAITĖ, Julius JANAVIČIUS, Rytis JUONYS, Justas STANIULIS
Trekking route passport
Area of mountains, country: Central Caucasus, Greater Caucasus Mountains range, Georgia, Svanetia
Category of the report: Mountain trek class
Category of difficulty: 2B
Number of participants: 9
Dates: 2017-07-23 / 2017-07-30
Duration of active trek (days): 6
Total duration (days): 9
Length (km): 26,5
Total climb (m): 2176 - ascent and 2178 descent
Trekking route: Mestia – Valley[1] – Gnezdo Amarantov pass (3200, 1A) – Nageb pass (3600 m) – Nageb glacier Tetnuldi “Shoulder” (4200 m) – Tetnuldi peak (4858 m) – Nageb pass (3678 m) – “Novichkov” pass (3500m) – Valley1 – Mestia
Number of technical sections andobstacles and grade of difficulty:
Peak Tetnuldi – 2B
Pass Nageb – 2A
Pass Gnezdo Amarantov – 1A
Pass “Novichkov” – 1B
Group leader: Gintaras Bagdonas, email: gb.ambre@gmail.com cell ph.: +37068651433
[1] The name of valley is unknown. We named it as a valley of the vicinity of our first camping at: 43.014157 N, 42.94840 E.
No. |
Name |
Responsibilities |
Experience |
1 |
Gintaras Bagdonas |
leader |
Peak Layla, Caucasus, Georgia, 2016 (group leader); Peak Mont Blanc, France, 2016 (group leader); Peak Gediminas Akstinas, Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan, 2015; Peak Grossglockner, Alps, Austria, 2015 (group leader); Peak Kazbek, Caucasus, Georgia, 2014; Peaks Darius and Girenas and Ciurlionis, Pamir mnt., Tajikistan, 2013; Peak Mont Blanc, France, 2013; Mountain trekking, Fanes mnt., Tajikistan, 2011; Training together with Montis Magia instructors, High Tatra mnt., Slovakia, January 2011; Peaks Kilimanjaro and Mnt Meru, Tanzania, 2009; Mountain treks: Caucasus, High Tatra mnt., Alps, Apennine mnt., Pyrenees mnt., 1990 - 2008. |
2 |
Valerijus Sinkevičius |
repairman |
Peak Gediminas Akstinas, Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan, 2015; Peaks Darius and Girenas and Ciurlionis, Pamir mnt., Tajikistan, 2013; Peak Elbrus, Caucasus, Russia. |
3 |
Sigutė Stanaitienė |
responsible for food |
Peak Layla, Caucasus, 2016; Peak Grossglockner, Alps, Austria, 2015. |
4 |
Vilma Tauraitė |
|
Peak Layla, Caucasus, 2016; Peak Grossglockner, Alps, Austria, 2015. |
5 |
Marija Bagdonavičiūtė |
financier |
Peak Layla, Caucasus, 2016; Trekking in Alps, Austria |
6 |
Rasa Kavaliauskaitė |
chronicler |
Peak Mont Blanc, France, 2016; Mountain trekking, Caucasus, Georgia (Kakheti), 2015; Mountain trekking, Atlas mnt. Morocco, 2011. |
7 |
Julius Janavičius |
medic |
Trekking in High Tatras and Caucasus. |
8 |
Rytis Juonys |
|
Peak Mont Blanc, France, 2016. |
9 |
Justas Staniulis |
photographer |
Peak Avicena, Pamir Mnt, Kyrgyzstan, 2016; Peak Grossglockner, Alps, Austria, 2015; Peak Tetnuldi, Caucasus, Georgia, 2015; Peak Kazbek, Caucasus, Georgia, 2014; Peak Mont Blanc, Alps, France, 2014; |
Description of the area of the mountains
Geographical facts: The Caucasus Mountains are aligned west-northwest to east to east-southeast between 40-44° N and 40-49° E. It is a Mountain range between Europe and Asia, between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea. They consist of two separate mountain systems: the Greater-Caucasus extends for about 1300 km between the Black Sea and Caspian Sea, and Lesser-Caucasus, which runs parallel but approximately 100 km to the south (Fig. 1).
According to location the Greater Caucasus is divided into 3 parts: Western, Central and Eastern. The highest is the Central Caucasus. Our trek took place in the Central Caucasus part.
Climatic facts:The high mountains of the Greater Caucasus are characterized by short and cool summers as well as long and rather cold winters with mean monthly temperature below 0°C. Temperatures, precipitation and humidity decrease with height, whereas the strength of the westerly winds increases. Precipitation is higher on southwestern slopes than on northeastern slopes while continentality increases from the west towards the east. The altitude of the firn line increases eastwards from 2800 m on the southwestern slope to 3400–3600 m above sea level in the east.
Other: Tetnuldi is thought to be 10th highest peak of the Caucasus and the 5th highest and famous peak in the central part of the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range. It reaches 4,858 m and is permanently covered with abundant snow and ice. The slopes of the mountain are glaciated generally above the 3000 m line.
Tetnuldi has many routes ranging from easy (2B, Russian classification) to hard (5B, Russian classification). The classic, the most popular and the easiest route (2B, Russian classification) goes by the southwestern ridge of mount Tetnuldi. Climbing up to Tetnuldi does not have many technical difficulties, but nevertheless requires a certain coherence, good physical form and possession of basic skills in belaying and dealing with different types of mountain terrain. Climbing Tetnuldi in good weather possible in three days. The best months for climbing are July, August. Following the left side of the valley, one ascends by the large moraine scree and relatively steep rocks to the Nageb pass at 3600 m height. Going to the west from Nageb pass over the Nageb glacier on the left side there are two other passes, first - Rockwell Kent (1B, 3500 ASL) and next – Novichkov (1B, 3500 ASL), which both lead to the valley in the south of mountain ridge.
Data | Day | Daily route | Length (km) | Running time | Technical sections and obstacles | Ascent/descent | Height of the camping place | Weather conditions |
2017-07-23 | 00 | Kaunas-Kiev-Kutaisi | - | - | - | - | - | - |
2017-07-24 | 0 | Kutaisi-Mestia | - | - | - | ~1100 m | 1500 m | hot |
2017-07-25 | 1 | Mestia–Ski routes – valley (first part until Ski route – by vehicle) | 5 (from ski piste) | 3 h (from the ski piste) | - | 209 m (from ski piste) | 2891 m | Shower in the morning, sunny for the rest of the day, no precipitation at night. |
2017-07-26 | 2 | Valley-pass Gnezdo Amarantov -pass Nageb | 4,5 | 9 h | Pass Gnezdo Amarantov - Pass Nageb | 787 m | 3678 m | All day sunny. |
2017-07-27 | 3 | Pass Nageb | - | - | - | 250/250 | 3678 m | All day sunny. |
2017-07-28 | 4 | Pass Nageb-Tetnuldi “Shoulder” | 2,9 | 4 h 25 min | Crevasses | 684 m | 4362 m | All day sunny, clear, gusty winds on “the Shoulder”. Strong wind and drifting snow, storm during the night. |
2017-07-29 | 5 | Tetnuldi “Shoulder”- Tetnuldi peak-pass Nageb | 1,2 (ascent)+ 4,1 (descent). | 10 h | Steep slopes, narrow bridge, on the way down - crevasses | 496 m/ | 3678 m | Very gusty winds on the “Shoulder”, foggy (cloudy). |
2017-07-30 | 6 | Pass Nageb - Mestia | 9 | 9 h 40 min | Poor visibility, steep descent, loose rocks | -2178 m (to Mestia) (998 m – to ski pistes). | - | foggy (cloudy). |
2017-07-31 | 000 | Mestia-Tbilisi | - | - | - | - | - | - |
No. | Technical section | Category of difficulties | Length | Height/climb | Characteristics of obstacles |
1 | Peak Tetnuldi | 2B (Rus) | - | 4858 m, the classic route (southwestern ridge of Tetnuldi) | Mixed (ice/snow/rocks) ascent and descent
|
2 | Pass Nageb | 2A |
| 3600 m | Snow and moraine |
3 | Pass Gnezdo Amarantov | 1A |
| 3184 m | Snow and moraine |
4 | Pass Novickov | 1B |
| 3500 m | Mixed (snow/rocks) |
Name | Peak Tetnuldi |
Description | 4858 m (4860 m. on the altimeter). Snow-ice slopes, rocks at very short intervals. |
Difficulties and threats | Long snow/ice slopes, up to 45º, Crevasses, Hard snow in the morning, softer - in the afternoon, Narrow 5 m. long bridge near the top, Part time of Gusty strong winds, storm and poor visibilityof 30°of 30° |
Grade of difficulty | 2B |
Action of the group |
Easy roped climbing, Rock scrambling, Steep climbing (above 30º - up to 45°). |
Securing methods |
The team roped together, ice axes for self-arrest in case of fall, belay by rope team members on difficult sections, running belay on ice screws or ice axes in some sections. |
Used equipment |
Ropes, crampons, helmets, harnesses, ice axes, carabiners. |
Name |
Pass Nageb |
Description |
3600 m. Snow-ice couloir, rocks at the beginning and the end. |
Difficulties and threats |
Snow/ice couloir, about 40°, Soft snow.of 30°of 30° |
Grade of difficulty |
2A |
Photo of Section |
|
Action of the group |
Steep climbing (about 40º ), Rock scrambling. |
Securing methods
|
Team roped together, ice axes for self-arrest in case of fall. |
Used equipment |
Crampons, helmets, harnesses, ice axes, poles. |
Action of the group |
Steep climbing (about 40º ), Rock scrambling. |
Securing methods |
Team roped together, ice axes for self-arrest in case of fall. |
Used equipment |
Crampons, helmets, harnesses, ice axes, poles. |
Name | Pass Novichkov | |||||||||
Description | Snow-ice and couloir, rocks and moraine in the beginning and in the end. | |||||||||
Difficulties and threats | Snow/ice couloir, about 35°, Soft or melted snow, Loose rocks, Running water under ice and snow, Poor visibility.of 30°of 30° | |||||||||
Grade of difficulty | 1B | |||||||||
Photo of Section
| ||||||||||
Action of the group | Rock scrambling. Steep climbing (about 35°). Abseiling. | |||||||||
Securing methods | Fixed rope for abseiling. | |||||||||
Used equipment
| Crampons, helmets, harnesses, ice axes, poles, ope. |
Action of the group | Rock scrambling. Steep climbing (about 35°). Abseiling. |
Securing methods | Fixed rope for abseiling. |
Used equipment | Crampons, helmets, harnesses, ice axes, poles, rope. |
Diary of the trek
Day 00 (2017-07-23)
Trip Vilnius-Kaunas-Kiev-Kutaisi, we were picked from Kutaisi airport by Paata, (owner of the guest house in Mestia) and spent a night in Kutaisi.
Day 0 (2017-07-24)
Trip from Kutaisi to Mestia, where we stayed in Paata’s guest house. Met a group of Lithuanians there, including 2 guys who just descended from Tetnuldi. They reported good conditions on the mountain. Evening spent preparing gears and individual equipment. Altitude – 1500 m.
Day 1 (2017-07-25)
The route: Mestia – Valley[1].
Weather: shower in the morning, during the day – sunny, in the evening – sunny, during the night – no precipitation.
Total ascent/descent: 209 m
Camp GPS coordinates: 43.014157 N, 42.94840 E
Camp altitude: 2891 m.
Length of route: 5 km.
Running time: 3 h
We left the guest house around 8:00 in a car and went up the road almost to the top of the Tetnuldi skiing resort. After reaching 2682 m ASL at 10:50 we continued on foot, going in the direction of east-south east over the rolling hills and pastures, following small footpaths. After walking for 3 hours we established the camp in the valley near small brook and performed short recognizance searching for path through the field, covered with large stones.
Day 2 (2017-07-26)
The route: Valley – Gnezdo Amarantov (Amaranth Nest) pass – Nageb pass
Weather: all day sunny
Total ascent/descent: 787 m
Camp GPS coordinates: 43.024623 N, 42.967034 E
Camp altitude: 3678 m
Length of route: 4.5 km
Running time: 9 h
We woke up at 6:00 and left the camp at 8:15 moving north. After few hundred meters began a field covered with large rock rubble, which we crossed along the left side, turning east and reaching snow covered couloir, leading to the Gnezdo Amarantov pass. Snow wet and shallow, steepness around 30 degrees. We ascended through the central part of the couloir, reaching the saddle of Gnezdo Amarantov pass (1A, 3184 m). From here we turned left (north-north east), ascended about 150 meters through deep snow and reached the ascent to the Nageb pass. Initial ascent through a narrow strip of unstable moraine between vertical rock on the left and glacier on the right, then through the snow, steepness 30 degrees. Due to navigation mistake we move too far to the right and have to ascend snow covered slope of 40 degrees in order to reach Nageb pass (2A, 3600 m) at 17:00, establishing camp there at 3678 m ASL.
3 day (2017-07-27)
Acclimatization / training.
Weather: all day sunny, clear.We made a short, about 250 m. ascent on the slope to the east from the camp and spent several hours training.
4 day (2017-07-28).
The route: Pass Nageb - Nageb glacier - Tetnuldi “Shoulder”.
Weather: all day sunny, clear, gusty winds on the “Shoulder”. Strong wind and drifting snow during the night.
Total ascent: 684 m
Camp GPS coordinates: 43.024007 N, 42.98439 E.
Camp altitude: 4362 m
Length of route: 2.9 km
Running time: 4 h 25 min
After getting up at 6:00, we left the camp at 9:00, went across glacier up to escarpment of cliffs. Bypassing the cliffs on the left, ascending over the slope, covered with firn and névé type of snow and ice, of about 45-50 degrees of steepness and 40 meters long. This was one of the steepest place of the entire route. Further walk along a flatter slope and a strong snow. We crossed through a few single cracks. After having a short rest on “the pillow” (about 4050 m) we continued to climb up passing through a bergschrund in short traverse to our next camp at the Tetnuldi “Shoulder" (4362 m ASL), which we reached at 13:30. We passed the bergschrund in two teams roped together, securing ourselves with ice axes.
5 day (2017-07-29).
The route: Tetnuldi “Shoulder”– Tetnuldi peak (4858 m ASL) – base camp (Nageb pass).
Weather: very gusty winds on the “Shoulder” during the night and in the first part of the day, foggy (cloudy).
Total ascent: +496 m.
Total descent: -1180 m.
Camp GPS coordinates: 43.024623 N, 42.967034 E
Camp altitude: 3678 m.
Length of route: 1.2 km (ascent) + 4.1 km (descent).
Running time: 10 h Due to very gusty wind and snowstorm we postponed our initially planned summit assault from 04:30 until 09:00. Because of the hazardous weather conditions Julius and Vilma decided to descend down and get to Mestia town until the evening, while Gintaras, Rytis, Justas and Valerijus – to reach the peak of Tetnuldi. Three female team’s members - Marija, Rasa and Sigute decided to stay and wait in the camp.
Summit assault was started at about 9:15, having good visibility, wind around 20-25 km/h. The ascend began by light scramble on rocks, about 30° steepness. Because of rocky and stable path, we scrambled without crampons. After about 40 minutes we reached narrow horizontal snowy ridge. From there we proceeded roped together and with crampons on, using ice axes for self-arrest. Then climbed across the icy 40° steep slope, leaving on the right side the steeper crest (about 50°), about 15 meters high. Afterwards we had to cross a horizontal snow “bridge” – about 5 meters long, very narrow and crumbled, which we did one by one, while other team members provided belay on ice axes. Later on we kept moving along the ridge, keeping a bit on the right side, steepness around 30°. At about 11:00 weather worsened, visibility dropped to 25-30 meters. Here followed another steep, about 40 meters high slope of 45°, covered with firned, icy snow. After this section we kept about 5 m to the right from the on the top of the ridge. After negotiating the last section – 30-35° ascent on the hard snow we reached the summit at 12:15. We spent 30 min for rest and photo session there and started descent back to the camp. Visibility worsened to 15 meters. Getting down about two thirds of the way, wind increased up to about 40 km/h. We returned back to the camp at about 14:30.
After consultation we decided to descend to the base camp on the Nageb pass. Because of strong and gusty wind, it took time to pack rucksacks. At 15:30 we began descent. We went in the single roped team, following the same way as during the ascent. Glacier conditions deteriorated significantly: old cracks and crevasses widened, some new cracks were broken through. In order to cross the cracks we resorted to various modes of belay, including ice screws and ice axes. In order to avoid steep descent on the ice in the final section, we used one fixed rope for abseiling. The camp was reached at 19:15.
6 day (2017-07-30).
The route: Base camp (Nageb pass) – Novichkov pass - ski route – Mestia.
Weather: foggy (cloudy).
Total ascent: 0 m
Total descent: 2178 m (to Mestia) (996 m – to ski pistes).
Length of route: 9 km
Running time: 9 h 40 min
We woke up at 8:00 o’clock and left the base camp at 9:00. We intended to reach pass Rockwell Kent (1B, 3500 m ASL), which was closer to the pick-up place at ski route. However due to heavy fog and very poor visibility (about 10-15 m) we could not find this pass. After wandering around the glacier for more than two hours, we finally found another pass, which, as we discovered later, was called “Novichkov” (1B, 3500 m ASL). The pass was located in the hallow of glacier, it is marked with cairn (stack of stones), with about less than 100 m wide couloir. Initially we descended along the right side of the path on a moraine with inserts of snow. Later we used a fixed rope, as it was steep and slippery, there was melted snow with water rivulet under the snow, bad visibility and risk of loose rocks. Getting a half way down, the visibility and descend conditions improved, we entered wide snowy slope. Later on we passed over a heap of stones field (stony laystall), and after walking across the grassy and hilly valleys we reached the pick-up point at ski route at 18:40, where we were met and transported by vehicle to Mestia town.
[1] The name of valley is unknown. It meant the vicinity of our first camping at: 43.014157 N, 42.94840 E.
Lists of equipment/gears
- Technical and Individual
No |
Name |
Number |
|
1 |
Climbing rope |
3 |
60 m, 50 m, 28 m |
2 |
Helmet |
1/person |
|
3 |
Harness |
1/person |
|
4 |
Boots (crampon-compatible) |
1 pair/person |
|
5 |
Crampons |
1 pair/person |
|
6 |
Ice axe |
1/person |
|
7 |
Belay Device |
1/person |
|
8 |
1 Carabineers |
at least 3/person |
|
9 |
Slings |
at least 2/person |
|
10 |
Ice Screw |
5 |
|
11 |
Ascender |
2 |
|
2 Camping
1 | Tents: 2-person 4-person |
2 1 1 |
2 | Camp stoves | 3 |
3 | Windscreen | 1 |
4 | Fuel (gas) | 3 |
5 | Cooking pot | 3 |
6 | Sleeping bag | 1/person |
7 | Compression sack | at least 1/person |
8 | Sleeping pads | 1/person |
9 | Snow shovel | 1 |
10 | Dishes, bowls | 1 set/person |
11 | Matches, lighter, fire starter |
|
12 | Fire-resistant fabric | 1 |
The schemes of routes (GPS routes are taken and scheme made by Rytis Juonys).
Ski Route – Valley (first camp):
Valley – Gnezdo Amarantov pass – Nageb pass:
Nageb glacier (at the beginning of rocks) – Tetnuldi “Shoulder”:
Tetnuldi “Shoulder” – Tetnuldi peak and back to the “Shoulder”:
Pass Nageb (base camp) – Ski routes, descend through “Novichkov” pass:
Sources:
- http://www.summitpost.org/caucasus/170909
- Classification of passes (RU):
- http://tourism.intat.ru/sport/neks/kavkaz/;
- http://westra.ru/passes/.
- Reports:
- http://alpinizmo.vikis.lt/wiki/upload/8/83/Tetnuldi2016.pdf (2016);
- http://stksplav.narod.ru/reports/2015/Borisov_Georgia_3_2015.pdf (2015);
- http://www.alpinist.lt/LAC2013-ataskaitos/Zygiai/KZK-1_Svanetija_V-VIsk_2013.pdf (2013);
- http://www.alpinist.lt/LAC2013-ataskaitos/Zygiai/KZK-2_Svanetija_IVsk_2013.pdf (2013);
- http://www.geolink-group.com/tourclub/trips/2013ez4/ (2013);
- http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=6774 (2013);
- http://biomedicum.ut.ee/kalle/matk/svaneetia10/report.pdf (2010).
- Weather forecast:
- https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Tetnuldi/forecasts/4853
- http://meteo.gov.ge/index.php?l=2&ct=37&cm=
- https://snow.ge/ski-resorts-georgia/weather-ski-resorts-georgia-snow-level/tetnuldi-prognoz-pogody-sneg.html
- Photo pictures by Justas Staniulis and Gintaras Bagdonas.
- GPS routes by Rytis Juonys.
Contact information:
Gintaras Bagdonas, e-mail: gb.ambre@gmail.com, mob. ph.: +37068851433
Rasa Kavaliauskaitė, e-mail: kavarasa@gmail.com